Sublime jugendstil plique-a-jour enamel gingko leaf silver brooch attributed to Levinger & Bissinger, Germany.
Dating to around 1900 this art nouveau brooch is a miniature work of art, sinuous and sexy it features exquisitely shaded blue and green plique-a-jour enameled leaves set with natural seed pearls. A rare Mississippi river freeform pearl is suspended from the bottom.
MATERIALS: 900 silver. Plique-a-jour enamel
GEMSTONES: Natural seed pearls, natural freeform river pearl
MEASUREMENTS: 1-1/2 inches across and 1-3/4 inches high (approx. 38x45mm)
DATE: 1900-Art Nouveau
WEIGHT: 4.1 grams
MARKS: Stamped "900" and "Gesc HL" or "Gesc HU" (for Geschutzt the German word meaning patent protected). Also stamped with a makers mark that is difficult to read, it looks like an intertwined 'HL' the makers mark for Henrich Levinger & Bissinger, Pforzheim, Germany.
CONDITION: Excellent with no damage to the delicate enamel. The pin back in perfect working order. The natural pearl drop appears to have jagged edges but it is intact with no sharp edges so this is its natural form.
The enamel technique plique-à-jour (French for "letting in daylight") is a vitreous enamelling technique where translucent enamel is applied in cells so light can shine through. It is in effect a miniature version of stained-glass, it is considered very challenging technically and there is a high failure rate. The technique became very popular during the dawn of the 20th century with art nouveau plique-à-jour jewelry from France and Germany becoming particularly desirable and highly collectible today.
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